When people shot with film cameras, a macro photo was a photo of anything that was life size on the film 35mm. As we are now mostly digital, this doesn’t seem to hold up. All sensors are different in size and most photos will be seen on a computer screen so will appear well above life-size; so it seems to me its now just close up photography, but that’s just my view on things! It doesn’t really make much difference what you call it - once you see things in close up, you will be hooked!
When shooting macro I usually set my camera to aperture priority, as the depth of field is more important than the shutter speed; although you should make sure your shutter speed is high enough so as not to get a blurred photo. If your shutter speed isn’t high enough then use with a flash, preferably either an off-shoe or a ring flash, as the on-camera flashes cast shadows when used at close range. When using flash I use a vintage T10 Olympus ring flash and set my camera to manual. I prefer this method as I find it easier to set the exposure. Others may find other ways easier but it works for me. I used a Tamron 90mm Di and found it very sharp but now I have moved to Olympus I use the Olympus 60mm macro and it's just as sharp. Others prefer the Canon 100mm & 60mm efs, and Sigmas or Nikon - it’s down to personal preference and money! Some lens extend when focusing, some don’t, and some weigh more than others, so try them out before you buy to see which suits you.
Other ways to do macro include specialist lenses like Canons MP-E 65mm. This zooms from life size to 5x life size. You can also get extension tubes that fit between your lens and the camera. You usually get three sizes in a full set and you can get them in manual and auto, the auto ones being more expensive because the have the same contacts a lens usually has, whereas the manual ones don’t have any contacts at all, so the auto versions are the easier to work with. Another way is to use magnification lenses, you buy these and they fit on the front of your lens like a filter would and come in different magnifications, this is probably the cheapest option to start with. Next comes bellows; these fit between your lens and camera and come in auto and manual versions. Again the difference is that the auto version has contacts, whereas the manual ones don’t . Bellows are good for extreme close-ups but the down size is that you really need to have them attached to a tripod, as they make the set up bulky for hand-holding. I'm not saying they can’t be hand held, as some will say they can, but its a sight easier on a tripod.
In the end you must find which way works for you and your subject, as all people are different. Good luck choosing and most of all have fun.
When shooting close-ups a couple of things I do may help you. I usually focus the lens manually, then get myself braced and move slightly backwards and forwards. As you do this, you will see the image come into and go out of focus. Just as it comes into focus, stay still and shoot. If you do this a few times, you should come out with some good results. If you use auto-focus then its a lot harder, as the slightest movement will make the lens 'hunt' and it will just sound like its hunting all the time. If you are taking pictures of things and they are blowing about, then you can try and tie them down. Some people use a clip that attaches to the object and then to a tripod which keeps flowers and the like from blowing about in the wind, others carry small canes and tie the flowers to these to keep them still but make sure when doing this not to get them in the photo.
When using flash there are lots of things to consider, like which type of flash to use. You could use you the inbuilt flash but usually these can cause a shadow when using very close up. I use a normal flash and use it off-shoe so to get better results and no shadows, as even theses can cast a shadow when used close up when on the hot-shoe. I also use a diffuser as it gives a less harsh light than it dose without. You can buy a diffuser or I made one out of the bottom of a plastic milk carton that works just as good!
Some people use a twin off shoe setup, which gives better lighting and allows you to alter the shadows if there are any. Lots of people use ring-flashes. There are two types. One which usually comprises one or two fluorescent bulbs for illumination which can sometimes be turned on and off individually to add or take away shadows as you would like -and led ones, which consist of an array of leds some models having more than others. I know little of the led ones but have read up on them and, if I was going to get one, I think I would plump for the flash version, the main reason being that a ring-flash gives uniform lighting. Having said that, some people think this makes the subject look too flat as they cast no shadows, but as I said earlier there are some ring-flashes that allow you to switch off the lighting tubes to get the effect you like. Taking photo’s of insects and other small things is great! I like to search the garden - look under leaves as well as on them, pick up stones, check flower-heads and weed-heads you never know what you're going to find!
I like to do all my photography outside, but some people like to work indoors and set up a studio.Some people when they have caught their insects take them home and put them in the fridge to cool them down, as insects are less mobile when cold and therefore easier to photograph. I can see why people do these things and as I am getting older I may have to resort to setting up a studio if things get harder in the field. If you do collect insects to photograph at home, I would suggest that you return them to where you got them from once you have finished with them.
You can bait for insects by using nectar and sugar water and even urine can attract butterflies and other insects. Look for dragonfly lava coming out of the water on to reed stems to change into a dragonfly. Look for chrysalis’s turning into moths and butterflies - you’ll sometimes find these on the underside of plants in you house and in you shed, so keep you eyes open.
For moths lots of people set up lights outside to attract them. There are a few different set-ups and I would advise you to get advice about this sort of thing as I wouldn't want you to electrocute yourselves or anyone else! A simple method it to rig up a white sheet and shine a torch on it from behind attracting insects which land on it.
I have found I can get closer to carnivorous insects easier when they are feeding, as they seem to be too involved with getting a good feed to worry about me getting too close. Check out where the insects you want to photograph live and learn as much as possible about their habitat as you can. Insects seem not to fly about in strong winds or when its damp or raining so, when you do find them they are more prone to stay where they are, As mentioned before, they are less mobile when cold, so early morning and late night are good times to be looking for them at their most vulnerable. Insects and other small things are just as important or even more so then the large animals in life, so please take care of them and please do not pick or dig up wild flowers. If you do take insects home, please take them back to where you found them. Enjoy!